December 18, 2008, Tahiti, a meeting with the ocean.
Along with some fellow photographers, we had organized a surf photo session with Hira Teriinatoofa, ISA world champion in 2004 and 2010.
In Papenoo, on Tahiti’s east coast, the swell was timid, and the sky heavy. Yet, Hira, with the grace of an aquatic tightrope walker, launched himself, turning every small wave into an impressive acrobatic ballet.
Then, in the distance, a frail figure appeared; a child, facing waves twice his size, gliding with an almost unreal ease. Fascinated, I let my camera follow him, mesmerized by this young prodigy who seemed to have already tamed the ocean.
A few days ago, as I was going through my photos of Tahiti, reliving that precise moment with a touch of nostalgia, a revelation struck me: that child of the waves was none other than Kauli VAAST, 2024 Olympic surfing champion.
At that moment, was that little boy dreaming of winning Olympic gold and gliding on the Seine, his medal around his neck, under the amazed gaze of millions of spectators?
(Thank you, Hira, for confirming this).
